China vs. Tibet - an unfair fight...

Yes, I know, "Somwhen next week" is already over quite a long time - but I'm really sorry, I just did not have the time! And besides visitor-numbers are dropping significantly, so I thought its about time for some more brainwash - ahhm - stories :)

This is probably a good point to put forward some critical thoughts about China and Tibet. It's especially a good point because I cant't be imprisoned here in Austria for publishing my thoughts, whereas in China it might bring you into serious trouble (I would be considered "Counter-Revolutionary" by the Chinese Communist Party, and therefore of course criminal!)...

As most of you probably know China invaded ("Liberated" in chinese government approved speaking...) Tibet in 1949/50. Thousands of Tibetan soldiers died trying to resist the People’s Liberation Army’s advance towards Lhasa. Chinese historians even noted that Tibetan peasants applauded Chinese troops who entered their villages, but they apparently didn’t realize that in parts of Tibet people customarily clap their hands to ward off evil spirits... ;)

Needless to say that the rich cultural and religious way of life in Tibet did not really fit into a communist regime (Since Marx already declared religion as "Opium of the people").
In 1959 the Dalai Lama, before the invasion the spiritual as well as worldly leader of Tibet, was forced into exile to India and is seen as the main Enemy of the State ever since. And whoever is considered to be in any relation to him is in trouble as well.
For example many Tibetans pilger to the Dalai Lama because of spiritual reasons - if the government ever finds out they will have no chance to get a job from the government (like e.g. teacher) or work in certain other restricted fields (e.g. tourism, which is after all still a quite important source of income for tibetans - and it is paradox that most guides in Tibet are Chinese!) or may even get detained.

After the so-called "Peaceful Liberation" and the exile of the Dalai Lama the "Cultural Revolution" - one of Mao's last big burst-outs of crazyness - was the next big shock for Tibet. From 1966 to 1976 More than 6000 Monasterys and Nunnerys have been destroyed, monks and Nuns disrobed, imprisoned or worse, and tibetan culture was derided as ‘backwards’ and ‘primitive’ and in need of ‘modernization’ by China.

Debating is an important part of buddistic culture, and moncs have always been educated in this skill.
The only thing is, that they cant discuss everything they want to nowdays - if they express pro- Dalai Lama views they risk getting imprisoned.
In Sera monastery you can watch monks debating. But be aware that you feel like a visitor in a zoo, becaus thats how the chinese government has set the whole thing up, as a tourist attraction.


Only very recently the chinese governmen realized, that tourism could be an important source of income for the region - they are in a kind of struggle now: On one side the Tibetan culture proves to be extremely resistant against all chinese assimilation attempts and the Tibetans deep loyality to the Dalai Lama - which is rooted in their culture - endagers Chinas claims on the land. And thereby of course also their acces to the natural ressources which are located in Tibet.On the other side the rich Tibetan culture attracts a lot of Tourists, and as everybody knows money is everything in modern China.


So they rebuild Monasterys which have been destroyed, but at the same time they suppress the religion. They create Buildings which lack the soul. This is exactly what you experience when you visit the Potala (on the left side. It has been turned into a big museum nowdays), former residence of the Dalai Lama, or his summer palace.





But it is not always as bad as I described it above. I soon realized how strong the faith of the people still is. And it is absolutely impressive to see how Tibetan People can take all this suppression and hidden or open discrimination, and still keep their faith!!

I have never seen more pilgrims then in Tibet. Especially in Lhasa - if you jump into the crowd of pilgrims on the Kora (A "Kora" is allways a ring-way around a holy temple, building, lake or mountain which people proceed clockwards wo earn themselfs good karma) arround the Jokhang-Temple you feel the deep faith of the Tibetans, Mongolians and Bhutanese who come a long way to visit this most holy temple of all.




Here you see some pilgrims turning a gigant prayer wheel on the Kora rount the Jokhang-Temple. I have never seen this wheel standing still!












Pilgrims turning Prayerwheels on the Kora arount the Potala...












Here some Tibetan women selling incsense (branches of special bushes, or powder made of some special plants) to pilgrims...











...who burn it - its supposed to make a lot of smoke and thereby cast out evil spirits









If you read this, you made it through the whole entry! Congratulations! ;)

I'm sorry, it was a lot of text this time, but I couldnt make it shorter, the topic is just to important to me.

But next time you will get a nice little travel-picture-story again, I promise!

cya! Lukas






TRAVEL TIPS:
If you travel to Tibet you should do this in a responsible way. And therfore you must be aware of the relationship between China and Tibet, because you don't want to put yourself, or even worse, other tibetans in danger.
(e.g. by starting arguing with an Tibetan about the Dalai Lama in the middle of Bakor-square, while you know that Lhasa is full of police and spys. If the Tibetan makes pro-Dalai Lama Statements he puts himself in great danger, so you shouldnt drive him into that.)

I reccomend that you read this alternative guide in order to prepare for your journey. It mentions a lot of background on the Chinese-Tibetan relations, where to look to find signs of the chinese suppression, how you should act in order to put no one in danger, and how you can help the Tibetan people in the country.

PARADOX LOST: HOW NOT TO BE A TOURIST IN TIBET
www.savetibet.org

Kathmandu - Lhasa - Gangte

Hello Everybody!!

Since there are so many dear friends I would like to read (and maybe also understand;) my Blog, but they can't speak german, this is going to be my first english Blog-Entry! Spelling-mistakes regretted ;)

Well, a lot happened since my last entry. I didn't get used to drunk tourists in masses and Gogo-bars in Kathmandu, but I found out that the City has also other, positiv, sides - you just have to see them!

After strolling around one day in the historic Center of the town I even have to admit, that the City is beautiful!! You can walk around, and behind every second corner there waits something to be discovered!

be it a giant choerton...

...just a nice shop...

... or a tempel occupied by Pigeons!

And there is much more for us to see! Btw, since the shopping-possibilities are really great, also stephanie liked it a lot ;)

Since we had 3 days before our departure to Lhasa, we decided to make a little adventure-trip as well -

here you see stephanie 'swinging' - that means you are standing on a 160m high suspension bridge, and have a approx. 50m long rope tied to your harness. The other End of the rope is fixed to a massive steel-rope, which is fixed to a steel-rope which is strained over the ravine as well. And then you jump. And Scream ;)

But the best thing about that trip was, that we met some very nice guys there, from the US, Netherlands and the Pharao-islands (sorry, elisabeth, had to write that ;) who we could hang out with for the next couple of days! I really hope to see some of them again some time!

But Time is always running fastest, when you enjoy it! And so we soon had to leave per plane to Lhasa...

...having some beautiful views of Tibets harsh landscape!!

And here we go, LHASA!! A rather chinese city nowdays, but still beautiful (if you stay in the tibetan corner of the city).

Amazing for me was, how big the streets all the sudden have become (compared to Nepal and Bhutan especially)! Potala in the Background...

and, ok, this has nothing much to do with lhasa itself, but have you ever seen a cat with two different eye-colors?? We found one guarding a little little monastry inside the old city! Strange but beautiful!

And today we went to Ganden-Monastery - an unbelivible place build on a little hill about 45 min north of lhasa

And from upthere you just have the most amazing view! The only problem is to walk up there - since the air is really getting thin above 4000m!!

Here you see one of the many temples from inside - as you mention correctly, its the first picture of the inside of an monastry on this blog so far. This is because in Bhutan its strictly forbitdden to take pictures of the temple, but china doesnt seem to care, they ask for a photo-fee and you dont even have to take off your shoes...

and thats it already - another entry will come somewhen next week!

cya

Travel Tips:

• Dont go Canyoning in the Monsoon season (at least not at Last Resort): Only the small canyon will be available (because the bigger ones have to much water). But what they dont tell you is, that at the small one all the water is used for irrigation of the fields above, so you basically repell down a more or less dry gorge, and the only reason you are wet is because you are sweating like hell in the wetsuit!! So dont get talked into it!
• The Kathmandu Guesthouse in Kathmandu is a good palce to stay. They have all kinds of rooms from 2 USD to 60 USD, but all are clean and safe. Besides it is located in the touristic center of the Town, in Thamel. You can also buy some beers in the shop round the corner and drink them in peace on the roof top - really nice! Sometimes you will find taxi drivers who will bring you from the Airport to the Guesthouse for free (because they get comission).
• If you like it a little cheaper go to the Freak-streat. This is the old touristic center of the Hippy-times, not so important nowdays. But you get pretty good places for cheap, try e.g. the Moon Stay Lodge, it has a really cosy atmosphere and rooms start from 150 NRP per night
• Dont miss the monkey temple in Kathmandu - great view on the city!
• In Lhasa we were staying in the Kirey Hotel - Rooms are clean, even if the shared toilets arn't always. But its a local place (you support tibetans by staying there!) and you have a very good and cheap restaurant (Tashi II) in the courtyard
• Dont miss Ganden Monastery! Really nice! And walk up the top of the Hill, the view is really worth it!