This is probably a good point to put forward some critical thoughts about China and Tibet. It's especially a good point because I cant't be imprisoned here in Austria for publishing my thoughts, whereas in China it might bring you into serious trouble (I would be considered "Counter-Revolutionary" by the Chinese Communist Party, and therefore of course criminal!)...
As most of you probably know China invaded ("Liberated" in chinese government approved speaking...) Tibet in 1949/50. Thousands of Tibetan soldiers died trying to resist the People’s Liberation Army’s advance towards Lhasa. Chinese historians even noted that Tibetan peasants applauded Chinese troops who entered their villages, but they apparently didn’t realize that in parts of Tibet people customarily clap their hands to ward off evil spirits... ;)
Needless to say that the rich cultural and religious way of life in Tibet did not really fit into a communist regime (Since Marx already declared religion as "Opium of the people").In 1959 the Dalai Lama, before the invasion the spiritual as well as worldly leader of Tibet, was forced into exile to India and is seen as the main Enemy of the State ever since. And whoever is considered to be in any relation to him is in trouble as well.
For example many Tibetans pilger to the Dalai Lama because of spiritual reasons - if the government ever finds out they will have no chance to get a job from the government (like e.g. teacher) or work in certain other restricted fields (e.g. tourism, which is after all still a quite important source of income for tibetans - and it is paradox that most guides in Tibet are Chinese!) or may even get detained.
After the so-called "Peaceful Liberation" and the exile of the Dalai Lama the "Cultural Revolution" - one of Mao's last big burst-outs of crazyness - was the next big shock for Tibet. From 1966 to 1976 More than 6000 Monasterys and Nunnerys have been destroyed, monks and Nuns disrobed, imprisoned or worse, and tibetan culture was derided as ‘backwards’ and ‘primitive’ and in need of ‘modernization’ by China.
Debating is an important part of buddistic culture, and moncs have always been educated in this skill.The only thing is, that they cant discuss everything they want to nowdays - if they express pro- Dalai Lama views they risk getting imprisoned.
In Sera monastery you can watch monks debating. But be aware that you feel like a visitor in a zoo, becaus thats how the chinese government has set the whole thing up, as a tourist attraction.
Only very recently the chinese governmen realized, that tourism could be an important source of income for the region - they are in a kind of struggle now: On one side the Tibetan culture proves to be extremely resistant against all chinese assimilation attempts and the Tibetans deep loyality to the Dalai Lama - which is rooted in their culture - endagers Chinas claims on the land. And thereby of course also their acces to the natural ressources which are located in Tibet.On the other side the rich Tibetan culture attracts a lot of Tourists, and as everybody knows money is everything in modern China.
So they rebuild Monasterys which have been destroyed, but at the same time they suppress the religion. They create Buildings which lack the soul. This is exactly what you experience when you visit the Potala (on the left side. It has been turned into a big museum nowdays), former residence of the Dalai Lama, or his summer palace.
But it is not always as bad as I described it above. I soon realized how strong the faith of the people still is. And it is absolutely impressive to see how Tibetan People can take all this suppression and hidden or open discrimination, and still keep their faith!!
I have never seen more pilgrims then in Tibet. Especially in Lhasa - if you jump into the crowd of pilgrims on the Kora (A "Kora" is allways a ring-way around a holy temple, building, lake or mountain which people proceed clockwards wo earn themselfs good karma) arround the Jokhang-Temple you feel the deep faith of the Tibetans, Mongolians and Bhutanese who come a long way to visit this most holy temple of all.
Here you see some pilgrims turning a gigant prayer wheel on the Kora rount the Jokhang-Temple. I have never seen this wheel standing still!
Pilgrims turning Prayerwheels on the Kora arount the Potala...
Here some Tibetan women selling incsense (branches of special bushes, or powder made of some special plants) to pilgrims...
...who burn it - its supposed to make a lot of smoke and thereby cast out evil spirits
If you read this, you made it through the whole entry! Congratulations! ;)
I'm sorry, it was a lot of text this time, but I couldnt make it shorter, the topic is just to important to me.
But next time you will get a nice little travel-picture-story again, I promise!
cya! Lukas
TRAVEL TIPS:
If you travel to Tibet you should do this in a responsible way. And therfore you must be aware of the relationship between China and Tibet, because you don't want to put yourself, or even worse, other tibetans in danger.
(e.g. by starting arguing with an Tibetan about the Dalai Lama in the middle of Bakor-square, while you know that Lhasa is full of police and spys. If the Tibetan makes pro-Dalai Lama Statements he puts himself in great danger, so you shouldnt drive him into that.)
I reccomend that you read this alternative guide in order to prepare for your journey. It mentions a lot of background on the Chinese-Tibetan relations, where to look to find signs of the chinese suppression, how you should act in order to put no one in danger, and how you can help the Tibetan people in the country.
PARADOX LOST: HOW NOT TO BE A TOURIST IN TIBET
www.savetibet.org
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